Zola. The very name sounds celebratory, doesn’t it? Even if you have no idea what kind of food they serve, you hear the name Zola, and you just want to go there. And once you go, you’ll go back again and again. Owner Adriano Baldelli has created a real Italian bistro that is welcoming, sophisticated, comfortable and, perhaps most importantly, delicious. If you’re looking for bland, American-ized, out-of-the-carton Italian food, this (thankfully) is NOT the place. Zola serves the kind of food that quickly burns away all memories of your last Italian chain-store meal and rekindles your love of the boot shaped country and all of its culinary treasures.

The space itself has a personality with warm colors, private dining spaces, smartly dressed staff and polished bottles of vino. Look around at your fellow diners and you’ll find families with young children, business colleagues, new couples and even a reunion of older folks breaking bread and passing plates of food around the table. There is that European touch here that invites folks to gather at the table and enjoy the food and each other’s company at a somewhat slower pace. Although it was our first visit, the staff made sure we were welcomed as if we’d been there fifty times or more.

Deliciously dense, chewy bread greets each table with a pairing of mixed olive tapenade, ripe with fruity olive oil. Our meal kicked off with Zola’s flash-fried calamari. Served with a red chili-laced Fra Diavolo sauce, it’s the kind of appetizer that only gets spicy if you stop eating it…so you don’t! Light and crunchy, it partners perfectly with a tall glass of ice-cold Peroni. A plate of crisp, Italian country bread Bruschetta is always a crowd pleaser with fresh tomatoes, olive oil and plenty of basil. If you’re looking for something a bit different, try the Arancini; fried risotto cakes stuffed with mozzarella and served with tangy marinara. On the salad front, there’s plenty to choose from including a classic Caesar, Caprese, Spinach, or Zola’s signature salad with organic greens, feta cheese, tomatoes, cucumbers and Kalamata olives with a tart Balsamic vinaigrette.

Zola’s thin crust pizzas will please even the most discriminating, New York connoisseur. Order a traditional Margherita for the table and see if you agree. With garlic, fresh mozzarella, basil and vine-ripe tomatoes, you simply cannot go wrong. The crust strikes that perfect combination of crisp and chewy that sets the perfect canvas for all of your favorite toppings. And if Italian means pasta to you, well-executed versions of all your favorites are here, from Capelini to Ravioli and all shapes and lengths in between. Try the Tortellini with Proscuitto ham, cremini mushrooms and bright green peas in a carbonara cream sauce, and then try and order something different the next time. Go on…I dare you!

While you may not think of steaks in the context of an Italian bistro, Zola’s dry-aged, bone-in ribeye will give any steakhouse a run for its money. Meltingly tender and served with asparagus, scalloped potatoes and braised red cabbage, it’s easy to see why its one of the restaurant’s best sellers. The slow-roasted, Niman ranch pork chops are another popular item, served with sun-dried tomatoes and garlic. Many Italian restaurants tend to forget that Italy is surrounded by the Mediterranean Sea, but Zola’s menu shows a true respect for its seafood. Whether you choose the sea bass with lemon butter sauce or the tilapia with spinach and feta in a tomato-basil wine sauce, you’ll be happy with your catch.

And just when you’ve decided you couldn’t eat another bite, you look over and see the neighboring table crack the crust on a vanilla crème brulee with the back of their spoon or effortlessly glide their fork through a thick slice of ricotta cheesecake. Maybe I do have a bit more room for an espresso and a bite of something sweet, afterall…

Zola is located at 14155 Highway 9 in Alpharetta just a few miles north of Windward Parkway. For more information or to make reservations, call 770.360.5777.

Story by North Fulton Living Food Editor Hans Rueffert. Hans has spent his entire life with food and is currently producing a new cooking show for GPTV called “Hans Cooks the South.” In 2005, Hans was selected out of 10,000 applicants to be a finalist on the show “The Next Food Network Star” and finished third in that competition. He currently teaches classes in and around North Georgia. Find out more at www.hanscooks.com. Photography by Amy Rueffert.