What if I told you there’s a restaurant in the heart of Crabapple that’s so good it will have folks driving to the town instead of simply through the town. Well believe me, there is, and it’s called Milton’s.

If the dining space at Milton’s feels comfortable to you, that may be because you’re dining inside of what once was an old farm house. If you look closely you can actually spot some of the original house’s trim and storage spaces. Each dining space has its own distinct feel, but the overall effect is serenely welcoming. Milton’s also sports an impressive outdoor-dining space comprised of multi-tiered decks that overlook the well-kept ground, the perfect spot for a fair-weather meal under the stars.

Our meal began with the buttermilk-battered Seafood Trio. Tender shrimp, sweet scallops and a Maine lobster tail so fresh I had to look out the window to confirm I was indeed overlooking Crabapple and not the ocean. I had to look again when the crab cake arrived; 100 percent pure jumbo lump adorned with a light Creole mustard beurre blanc. The Portabella mushroom soup brought me back to dry land, perfectly earthy and kissed with Madeira. It’s the kind of soup that will have you curving your spoon in every possible direction to scrape the last mushroom-flecked bits from the bowl. Other starters include fried artichokes, Ahi tuna tartare and an aptly named Knife and Fork Shrimp Chowder.

How could you possibly improve a 12-ounce center-cut, oven-roasted pork chop? How about stuffing it with smoked Gouda, Andouille sausage and caramelized onions? Paired with mashed potatoes, grilled asparagus and mustard beurre blanc, the stuffed pork chop is simply stunning. If you’re still thinking about the sea, try Milton’s shrimp and grits entrée. Gulf shrimp are sautéed in garlic oil, button mushrooms, applewood smoked bacon, onions and red peppers then paired with Logan’s Turnpike, smoked–cheddar grits. The menu offers a wide variety of entrées like almond-crusted mountain trout, chicken Romano, Cioppino and a large selection of steaks and pastas.

So instead of driving through the the little town of Crabapple, make your way over to Milton’s, order yourself a Crab-appletini, and enjoy a fantastic meal. You’ll be back.

Cream of Portabella Mushroom Soup

2½ pounds of Portabella mushrooms, sliced
¾ pounds unsalted butter
½ cup yellow onions, diced
1 cup Madeira (preferably rainwater)
1 quart heavy cream
1 cup flour
2 quarts chicken/veal stock
3 tablespoons basil, rough chopped
3 tablespoons tarragon, minced
1 tablespoons black pepper
1 teaspoon white pepper
1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 tablespoon fresh thyme, minced
¼ cup garlic, minced
First, remember to make the roux (½ pound butter and 1 cup flour).

In a large saucepan, sauté onions with 1 pound butter until clear. Add portabella mushrooms and continue to sauté, stirring constantly. Deglaze with Madeira. Add roux and continue to stir to create a paste. Add chicken stock. Bring soup up to a steady simmer and add heavy cream. Let simmer for 10 minutes and season with kosher salt to taste.

Milton’s Cuisine and Cocktails is open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday with a special Brunch menu from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. on Sundays. It’s located at 780 Mayfield Rd. in the heart of Crabapple. For more information call 770.817.0161, or visit them online at www.miltons-atl.com.

Story by North Fulton Living Food Editor Hans Rueffert. Hans has spent his entire life with food and is now host of his own cooking show in north Georgia called “Hans Cooks the World.” He can be seen on GPTV this holiday season in a new show called “Hans Cooks the Holidays.” In 2005, Hans was selected out of 10,000 applicants to be a finalist on the show “The Next Food Network Star” and finished third in that competition. He currently teaches classes in and around North Georgia. Find out more at www.hanscooks.com.
Photography by Amy Rueffert.