There’s always that moment at a restaurant when you know it’s your turn to order and you’re still having swirling debates about what to choose. The waiter is there, pen in hand, waiting for you to make that commitment. My mother is one of those non-commital types who must poll the enitre table (and often adjacent tables) before making a last minute, snap decision that’s often not even one of her original options. I often think she’d be better of just throwing a dart at the menu and just letting chance order for her. Shy of throwing darts, the best thing you can do with those indecisive folks is to take them out to Little Alley Tapas Restaurant & Bar in Roswell so you can simply say, “just get them all!”

Little Alley is quite probably Roswell’s best kept secret, the kind of place that foodies like to claim as their own. If you’ve been to Little Alley in the past, it’s time to come back to see the restaurant’s sparklingly redesigned interior. Owners Hicham Azhari and Fikret Kovac have added painted glass, new art and brick accents that give the space a warm, comfortable, almost secluded feel. From the moment you come through the door, you completely forget about the bustle and and traffic of the nearby intersection and enter into a renewed space that is intimate, chic and cozy without an ounce of pretention.

Chef Richard Wilt has created a menu that pays hommage to the Mediterranean without being limited by its borders. Throughout the selections you’ll find hints of old Europe, spikes of Asia or the warm undercurrents of Latin America. The North African influences of the Mediterranean are proudly represented here as well, allowing diners to embark on a gastronomic tour without having to leave the comforts of their chair. The selections are astounding and evolve with each season. My tour started at the sea with a crisp crab cake fritter with mango salsa, fried oyster with jalapeno rémoulade and Hijiki seaweed salad, and an Ahi tuna and salmon tartare with sesame cucumber salad and scallion pancake. Each dish achieves a level of balance that contrasts both flavors and textures in the most subtle, yet effective manner. My favorite among favorites was the Coquilles St. Jacques—massive seared sea scallops set atop parsnip puree with fresh wilted spinach and kissed with a truffle-scented walnut froth. Divine! The sweetness of the scallop paired with the earthy notes of the parsnip and truffle borders on the sublime. Did I mention it’s fantastic?

Land lovers will find plenty to rave about here as well. The duck spring rolls are crisp and moist, perfectly paired with radish slaw and sweet Mae Ploy chili sauce. New Zealand lamb chops are crisp and tender with spiced pistachios, crunchy parsnip fries and a tart beet gastrique. There are plenty of vegetarian options as well, including the popular Asparraggos, fire grilled asparagus with gruyere cheese, balsamic onions and extra virgin olive oil. And if you’re interested in something a little more substantial, the menu sports a Big Plates section featuring larger versions of Little Alley favorites as well as stand-alone knockouts like their grilled dry-aged New York strip with mushroom potato pie and green peppercorn sauce.

Desserts are on par with the rest of the menus diversity. Try the darkchocolate bread pudding with Tuaca mandarin orange “hard” sauce or the roasted pear strudel. Or, be adventurous and order three or four selections and enjoy them all. With a full bar and impressive wine list, a meal at Little Alley can easily turn into an adventure in fine food.

Little Alley Tapas Restaurant and Bar is open for lunch Monday through Friday from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and dinner Monday through Friday starting at 5 p.m. It’s located at 690 Holcomb Bridge Road near the intersection of Old Roswell Rd. For more information or to make reservations, call 770.992.9198 or visit them online at www.littlealley.com.

Story by North Fulton Living Food Editor Hans Rueffert. Hans has spent his entire life with food and is now host of his own cooking show in north Georgia called “Hans Cooks the World.” In 2005, Hans was selected out of 10,000 applicants to be a finalist on the show “The Next Food Network Star,” and finished third in that competition. He currently teaches classes in and around North Georgia. Find out more at www.hanscooks.com. Photography by Amy Rueffert.